深夜谈吃

二十万吃货的精神故乡

不知何时起，几乎随处可见兰州牛肉面馆。饿了，进馆子吃一碗勾魂的牛肉面，一天便也满足了。

如此好面当然需要一个好的师傅，我们在品尝美食的时候，其实最应钦佩的，是厨房里的厨子们。

今夜，深夜君带来食客眼中的调汤师傅的故事。

——深夜君

－ 正文 －

在兰州出生或者生活过的孩子，味觉榜单中，常年占据榜首的主打味儿，一定是那种煮过牛肉，淋上油泼辣子，再撒进去蒜苗香菜碰撞出来的那碗汤香味儿，以及那个仅仅路过就能勾你魂魄的牛肉面馆。

清醺肥菏，自成馨逸

汤沈若金，一清到底

“兰州”两个字，只有三横三竖五个点，在世界眼里，它虽位于中国版图的几何中心，却被视为边远之地。

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然而，在一个富有想象力的吃货眼里，“兰”是正在拉面条的师傅，他正在用双手尽洪荒之力打造柔韧，专业而骄傲；而“州”则是食客用筷子捞起面夹着牛肉丁的瞬间，满足而温暖。兰州，可以全部装在这碗面里。

 “清醺肥菏，自成馨逸，汤沈若金，一清到底。”这是被誉为“华人谈吃第一人”的美食名家唐鲁孙在他的《什锦拼盘》一书中所记述的兰州牛肉面尝后感。

自1915年牛肉面鼻祖马保子开创这碗伟大的面以来，不计其数的人赞叹着它的“一清二白三红四绿”，但我今天想说的，不是面，而是人——这碗面的最强大脑。

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兰州牛肉面馆的调汤师傅

关于好记性，我只服兰州牛肉面馆端面窗口那个调汤师傅！你拿着面的号码牌到他这里报到，他挨个收票问款式搭配，再一溜烟的把十几个人的需求转达给拉面师傅、捞面师傅，然后神奇的事情就发生了，那碗你要的面，不超过2分钟就端在你面前，且一定是你的那碗私人定制。

如果你觉得这些并不难，那么不妨感受一下这些余音绕梁：

“师傅，下个二细，蒜苗子多些！”

“毛细！面宽些，汤宽些，辣子少些！”

“我要大宽！萝卜多点！”

“我要一个细的！不要香菜！”

“我今天是一下荞麦楞子！”

“下个九叶子，面多煮一会！”

从清晨到午后，各种私人定制的要求充斥在面馆里的端面口。兰州人把一碗小小的面，愣是吃出了“千人千味”的概念，而这位好记性胜过烂笔头的调汤师傅，就是能把这些需求牢记在心，并实现在手，成为兰州人最最佩服的最强大脑。

每家面馆都有一个最强大脑，他驻守在那个连接厨师和食客的要塞之地，像桥梁一般，但又不止是桥梁。

他要飞快的把食客的需求在大脑中分区，提炼出排队端面的顺序应该匹配怎样的面型，再在调汤的时候把萝卜、蒜苗、香菜以及油泼辣子这些元素，准确无误的分配在要求面型中，从来没有任何人能在自己碗里挑出两样面条来……

普通牛肉面馆平均日接待量几乎上万人，就是这样的出面量，他们也很少出错。

在窗口排队等面的人，从来都不会没有耐心。他们肃立注目，充满敬意的欣赏调汤师傅这一气呵成绝活，哪怕循环往复，也是百看不厌。

这个窗口更像是一块屏幕，画面内热气腾腾，生龙活虎。画面外期待满满，目不转睛。从递过票的一刻起，窗外与窗内的人命运连接起来，你要的那碗面，在你眼前像胶片一样一格一格拍摄杀青剪辑奉上，那位最强大脑和他的拉面团队就这样活生生的实现了你对一碗面的所有梦想。

一碗面下肚，功德圆满！

有人说，兰州牛肉面馆绝对是消灭了阶级的公平地方，随你身价多少，这碗面一律6元；随你什么身份，你都得排队等位；随你来自哪里，你都是座上贵宾；随你怎么要求，你都会温饱满意。

于是，当你坐下来搅动面条的一刻，热气香气为你扑面而来，耳边响起师傅们的热闹的哟呵声，以及食客们开胃的吸溜声，最强大脑又开始抡着他的肱二头肌，为其他人量口定料了！这一刻，众生平等，特别美好。

一天的开始，它是能量，一碗面下肚，像给日程打底一样，让你昂首阔步的奔赴“战场”；宿醉的飘摇，它是安慰，一口汤入口，像给迷茫一副解药，温暖你疲惫的肠胃以及心房；待客的时刻，它是热忱，一碗端上前，像生命与生命最初的馈赠，分享分担惜福惜缘不计得失；归家的当下，它是门铃，走进面馆门，像翻开了回忆的书，所有过往从未离去只待你衣锦还乡。

文 / 曹晏

图片 / 百度图片

BGM / Devil In My Hand – The Dentals

你想与20万吃货分享你的美食故事吗？欢迎给我们投稿~投稿邮箱等待着你的故事：tougao@tonightfood.com（点击原文获得更多信息）

深夜谈吃

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二十万吃货的精神故乡

不知道多少人依靠火锅度过了寒冷的冬天，喜欢火锅，不仅因它满足了口腹之欲，还因为它给了一个理由让亲人朋友围坐在热气腾腾的饭桌旁，感受相聚的温暖。

一锅江湖里，翻滚着的，也许是食客心里道不尽的话。

——深夜君

－ 正文 －

我爱吃火锅，爱它猛烈的味道和火热的温度，更因为它能满足我的贪婪，让我一次就吃上所有喜爱的食物。

火锅源于中国，以麻辣火锅为标杆，正宗的麻辣火锅必要点上毛肚、鸭肠、嫩牛、千层肚与血豆腐。蘸酱也不能将就，香油、蒜头、香菜必不可少。

爱吃火锅， 爱其滋味也爱其方式

火锅店里，热气弥漫、人声与锅底沸腾的咕噜声混杂交融。打开食单，密密麻麻的选择让人满心欢喜。长嘴铜壶游走于杯盏之间，坐下不久，锅底与食材便端上桌来，开火，开吃，开聊。

坐在一桌的人们，一边攀谈，一边娴熟地夹取喜欢的食材放入锅中，大部分食材“七上八下”便可食用。热锅翻滚间，汤底愈发浓厚，拂去额头的汗，来一口盖碗茶或酸梅汤，手中的筷子别停下。

人们爱吃火锅，除了爱其滋味，也爱其方式。滚烫的锅底和生鲜食材一齐上桌。相比于等待厨房里烹饪好的饭菜，人们似乎更喜欢这种能够自我掌控食材生熟的支配感。

长长的木筷，夹起一片大而薄的肉片放入锅中，看着它在红汤里变色、卷曲，你知道那肉片与味蕾都等不及了，迫不及待送入口中，要的偏是这烫嘴的热辣。

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夹、沉、起、蘸，生料经过红油里几十秒的翻滚，裹挟着红汤里的辣与香，再拌上香油碟里的生蒜送入口中，油的香、肉的鲜、蒜的辛、椒的辣，咀嚼间，诸味和谐。

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能在一起吃火锅的人

才是真实的亲朋挚友

锅底自上桌始，就不会停止翻滚。同一桌的食客，无论来的早晚，火锅都能给他们同等的温度，很少人会因为迟到而拒绝一顿火锅，因为饭友与火锅都会等你。这一份从始至终的态度，牵动了多少身在江湖的饕客。

一起吃火锅的人，必是最熟悉的亲友。冒着热气的滚烫锅底，气味浓烈的羔羊肥牛，驱使吃火锅的人们都要脱下束缚肩臂的西装外套，女食客不得不挽起长发，男食客得要卷起袖口。谁也顾不得美好姿态与良好形象，认真吃火锅，就是一种独特的态度。

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这一锅江湖，包罗万象

吃什么，永远不会成为一顿火锅应有的担忧，因为它能满足千万种喜好。辣与不辣，牛羊或海鲜，蔬菜或菌菇，世间食材千千万，都能在这一口锅里统统实现。这一口锅，既容纳得了东西南北的喜好，也便能将食性各异的人聚在一起了。

麻辣清淡各取所需，一口鸳鸯锅，形似中国太极图，二者合一又相互独立，均衡对称彼此平等，这沸腾的汤锅，宛若热闹的江湖，包容了食色各异的人。

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蒸汽氤氲间，仿佛所有情绪都变得朦胧。将不痛快投入这沸汤辣油中，随着油泡一起破裂。吃上第一口你就会发现，没有什么是不能放下的，除了手中的筷子。

文 / 大碗饭

图片 / 百度图片

BGM / Sunny Day – Joy Williams

你想与20万吃货分享你

二十万吃货的精神故乡

今天翻后台记录，看到一篇老文章，讲食与色。

我身边常有人嫌弃对摆盘太纠结这件事，然而在我眼里，这件事情却倍有想象价值！

你是肉也好，你是菜也罢，我就喜欢看你油光娇嫩的躯体，然后在凹凸的味蕾上摩擦，在牙齿的压迫间汁水迸发，最终彼此交融。你看，这样的好色多有营养。

好了，现在开始正儿八经的食色之旅吧，这篇文章很长，分上下两篇，意犹未尽的话记得等明天。

——深夜君

3:44我就是这样的颜色来自深夜谈吃

－ 正文 －

一道美食，往往讲究色香味俱全，而对于首当其冲的“色”，我有着一种近乎偏执的喜爱。食物的贵贱我并无要求，但是能入得我眼的，我才愿意入口。

正因如此，相对于浓油赤酱、难辨食材本来面目的卤味拼盘，我更爱色彩丰富、清爽喜人的沙拉，而一盘集青豆的绿、鸡蛋的黄、米饭的白、胡萝卜的橙色等于一体的扬州炒饭，往往比满眼黄澄澄的咖喱炒饭更和我的心意。

红烧与乱炖，酱色里是朦胧的惊喜

出生于中原的一个小城，这里的人们对于食物没有过多的要求，能填饱肚子、提供每日工作生活所必需的热量足矣，至于食物的品相，更是被视为虚头八脑的东西，不值一提。

爸爸炒菜时偏爱入酱，老抽、甜面酱、黄豆酱来者不拒，基本上就是“红烧一切”，再加上本身的重口味，一桌菜炒下来，食物往往都变成了同样的红褐色，所以在我关于幼时的食物记忆里，色彩是最模糊的一个部分，好像所有的菜都蒙了一层浓重的酱色。

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及至到了东北读大学，这种情况也并没有改变多少，食堂菜本身就让人少了几分期待，何况东北大酱本就是东北人的心头好，所以四年吃下来，让我印象最深的还是那颜色浓得化不开的东北乱炖。

传统的乱炖或许尚且有一些颜色上的起伏变化，但我日常接触到的食堂版本则将被食堂大师傅的大锅铲将这种变化一次性铲去，一道菜上来，只能通过口感来分辨哪个是土豆，那个是茄子。

不过这种做法偶尔也能给人一种惊喜，夹起一块儿土豆入口，嚼了两下才发觉竟然是肉！这对千篇一律的食堂菜是一种难得的调剂，也让平常的一顿饭登时变得活泼起来。

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食物色彩学，起源于粤菜

我对食物色彩的追求起源于深圳，而对我的食物色彩学起启蒙作用的便是粤菜。当时尚在报社实习，中午主任带我们一起出去吃饭，粤菜注重时令及食材本味，一道道我完全叫不出名字的时令蔬菜被端上桌，青菜绿得仿佛要滴出水来，和豆腐的白嫩搭在一起，何等的赏心悦目。

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作为摆盘的萝卜花、香菜叶、圣女果，无一不给这道菜丰富了色彩，就这么一道菜，春意就漾满餐桌了。

来到广州读研，同门聚会第一波，吃的仍是粤菜。烧鹅、烤乳鸽之类的大菜并未引起我多大兴趣，一道客家酿豆腐倒是把我吃美了。细嫩的豆腐切成两三厘米宽，一厘米厚的块儿，中间挖出洞，填上调制好的肉馅儿，然后上锅蒸。

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水蒸气将食物由生转化为熟，却丝毫没有破坏食物的形状与色泽，用勺子小心地舀起一块，白嫩嫩的豆腐在勺子中微微晃动，有一种布丁般的质感，蒸制过的肉馅儿颜色略有缓和，中心却仍保留着粉红的色泽，和白嫩的豆腐一样，让人不由得生出几分爱怜。

清蒸鲩鱼块儿也是我的至爱，白嫩的鱼肉在红褐色酱汁的衬托下显得更为娇嫩，淡黄色的姜蓉和切得细碎的葱丝悠然躺在鱼肉之上，使得吃饭的人夹菜时的动作都不由得轻柔起来。

淡妆浓抹，惊艳的粥底火锅

粤菜里有名的粥底火锅也不得不提，与四川火锅红艳艳的麻辣汤底不同，粤式火锅是以熬得绵滑的白粥作底，经过长时间的熬煮，白米的棱角被磨去，变成柔似水醇如蜜的白粥，在灯光的照射下，粥油闪烁着亮晶晶的光，像是集结了食物的所有精华似的。

据说豪华版的粥底是要以老母鸡、猪大骨、老鸭、金华火腿、精肉及泰国香米等混合熬制而成了，如此看来，这么一锅粥底，本身就是精华中的精华了。

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粤式粥底火锅是很讲究涮菜的顺序的，往往是先海鲜后肉类再蔬菜，一盘盘简单处理过的新鲜海鲜被依次夹入锅中，简单涮一下便马上捞出，捞出以后要马上吃掉，吃完一盘才下第二盘，讲究的就是个新鲜。因为免去了混煮于一锅的尴尬，食材得以保留各自本身的味道，互不影响。

鲜鱼片、北极贝、海虾等在锅中简单地涮过以后，仍保留着娇艳的色泽、饱满的汁水和自身的柔韧口感，咬一口仿佛将整个大海都吞进了肚里。肉类也只是简单切成薄片，这样在涮煮过后仍保留着肉类原有的美味。

与北方的火锅不同，粥底火锅并没有麻将、腐乳、韭花、蒜泥等复杂的蘸料，顶多一小碟甜酱油，为的仍是个“鲜”字。总而言之，粥底火锅是我吃过的最具视觉享受的火锅，海鲜及肉类仍保有自身的粉与白，青菜经过涮煮更添了一分绿，煮到最后，粥底仍是干净清爽，只增添了淡淡的一点青菜的绿色，这是一道登峰造极的视觉盛宴。

-未完待续-

文 / 丫米的小确幸

图片 / 百度图片

BGM / 我-张国荣

原文发布时间：2013年10月24日

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二十万吃货的精神故乡

在北京生活的那段日子，有一家沙县小吃，就开在办公楼下，简陋的小屋藏在摩天楼的阴影里，等待着玻璃窗后的那些人。

每天早晨，进入大楼前，都会去一趟沙县，一份云吞面，饿的时候加多一份饺子，解决了早餐。我一直觉得很神奇，同样是街边小店，进沙县小吃，竟一点都不觉得寒碜，反而有一种浓烈的生活气。

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有人说，沙县小吃是个巨大的地方帮派，虽是玩笑，却是一代代人为了生活闯荡江湖的产物。今晚，深夜君带你来试试，沙县小吃。

——深夜君

－ 正文 －

沙县小吃，算不上美味，但它，是人间的烟火，是孤寂的浊酒。

小小门面，红色为底，黄色为字。沙县总会不经意地在你不注意的地方悄然出现，无论是高楼大厦，还是城郊处，它的出现，不啻于惊艳，更多是一种习常。若全国推选唯一的国民小吃，我定投沙县一票。

沙县小吃的“工匠精神”

沙县不过是闽南文化的一个缩影。据我看，闽南文化中有一种将小件事物精细化的特质，譬如小吃，全国各地都有，论风味，完全不输于沙县，但整合体系、形成品牌的唯有沙县小吃，套用现在滥俗的话叫“工匠精神”。

不过闽南文化又有瑕疵，就是一旦精细化到旁门左道，偏了门，便成了莆田系，以前人们常揶揄河南骗子，实则是一眼看出的把戏，到了莆田系，则是精细化成披着正规大医院外衣的伪装者。不过话说回来，商业经济下，很难说文化之间的高下，福建，作为偏据东南的大省，有其独特的人文色彩。

我是浙江人，本以为浙江和福建同处东南沿海，风俗相近，不料民俗风情迥然相异。据不严谨地论证，浙江，三吴荟萃，海上丝绸，古有会稽山，近有宁波帮，沥带儒雅文明的先风。福建，近南蛮之地，民风泼辣，狡黠有余，善经营耐吃苦。

所以，但凡服装、饮食，甚而医疗，皆有闽人的身影，且有以小做大，辐射扩张的本事。友人曾说，不曾吃沙县，不足以语人生。沙县自带的庶民色彩和庸碌的我们不经意地契合，构成20年来内地百姓的饮食构成之一。有华人的地方，就有金庸，那是否可以说，有老百姓的地方，就有沙县?

不曾吃沙县，不足以语人生

沙县近年攻城掠地，抢占庶民的味蕾和漉肠，和一脉相承的台湾小吃有异曲同工之处。两者皆取材简单，食用方便且便宜，一屉蒸饺、一盘鸡腿饭，一碗扁肉，闲来几只卤鸡爪和一盅鸽子汤，自有不可言说的妙处。

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热卤焖煮，荤素咸宜，体面、不低微，给奔走的你暂时的休憩和温饱，撬开一瓶芬达，“酒足饭饱”之后，满意地开始新的路途。有没有发现来吃沙县的大多是一个人？后现代原子化的个人除了快餐和泡面，尚有那份温情的选择，是沙县的秘诀，也是庶民的胜利。

人们对之冠以沙县国际大酒店，与其说是戏谑，不如说是自己对过往亲切的回忆。沙县的庶民本性和街头快炒有本质的区别，街头快炒讲究的是喧闹氛围，几盘香干炒肉丝、红烧鲫鱼，再干几杯啤酒，不诚心不痛快，沙县则是独自的个人仪式。

一个人的仪式

诸君可想，沙县最畅销的是什么？对，就是盖饭，他的荤素搭配，真的太适合独餐了。加之沙县过于普遍，两人吃饭未免寒酸，而对于饥肠辘辘甫加好班的你来说，最好不过。

沙县价不高，却最大程度符合你对食物的营养想象。但见那一盘鸡腿饭，有刚捞出卤汁的豆干、有刚烫拣出的青菜，遑论那一只硕大软嫩的鸡腿，蛋白质、维生素、纤维素，一样不落，再佐以些许辣酱，有滋有味，世上还有比这更美好的料理吗？

沙县的美好，还体现在因地制宜地契合你的味觉。假如你来自湘赣嗜辣之地，那么沙县所有料理满眼皆是辣味。假如你来自宁绍平原，那么沙县的青菜不经意地代以卤制的雪菜。假如你对大排有特殊要求，那么沙县的大排会特意炸酥浇汁。

沙县，某种程度上是普通百姓来往的窗口，你的欢颜、叹息、跺脚、悲伤，它都静静地看着。沙县和其他时尚餐厅截然不同，食物在此地才能温暖你孤寂的心灵。单身的你，失意的你，必定品味出人间料理的真味。

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落魄的你，可曾饮过沙县这壶浊酒？幸福的你，可曾再独自吃一碗鸡腿饭?

文 / 王白石

图片 / 百度图片

BGM / Liekkas – Sofia Jannok

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二十万吃货的精神故乡

我喜欢吃鱼，作为一个靠海长大的人，水带来的丰饶物产，足以让人一生不忘。

每个水域附近，都有它独特的水产，比如长江的刀鱼。因鱼生形似尖刀得名，是至鲜至美却日渐消逝的食物。

刘浮生笔下的刀鱼，在江水流转之间，仿佛看见故人魂魄，此间的美好与怅然，不可道也。今晚深夜君就带你看看，刀鱼的世界。

——深夜君

－ 正文 －

儿时的匆匆一吻，已然陷溺，再见便是倾心，钟情至今。总有那么一道菜可以占据我们心里最温柔的角落，就如自己挚爱的女人，扎根深处，千丝万缕，任红尘逐年深，我亦如初见。

岁月荏苒，孩童时期的很多记忆已经无法再去提起而清明前的长江刀鱼成功地触发了我第一次见它的场景片段。

童年时与刀鱼的一吻

缠绵了数十载

5岁那年，老屋里，奶奶用毛巾包边端上装得满满盈盈热气腾腾的一个大盘子，很是漂亮，金灿灿的，要知道，颜色比香味更能吸引一个孩子。

桌上，爷爷穿着那个年代的主旋律深蓝色春装，大手一把将我抱起入怀，很认真地告诉我这叫刀鱼，而后用筷子轻轻挑开上层的鱼，夹了一条底下浸透汤汁的，小心地吹了又吹，在鱼下面接着滴下来的汤汁一手递到我面前说“对着鱼嘴轻轻地吸”，照做了，那种鲜绝的美妙口感从那一刻起便烙进了我味觉记忆里最深的位置，这一吻便缠绵了数十载。

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曾经沧海难为水

除却巫山不是云

这些年寻访名山大川，江河湖海，品鉴下来鱼中至味还是这一尾清蒸的清明长江刀鱼。

 不仅仅是味觉记忆带来的感触，客观地评价而言，刀鱼学名刀鲚，自古以来便是长江四鲜之首，自二月开始从东海洄游进长江产卵，这个过程其性腺逐渐成熟，加之水质的变化，使得其肉质变肥美且鱼刺变软，这个神奇的转换之旅成就了清明长江刀鱼美轮美奂的口感，这其中你能领略到大海的浩瀚，也能感受到长江的包容，个中滋味唯有门下品刀客自清。

至鲜至美，香艳绵长

老餮们的理论是：越顶级的食材，其加工方式越简单 。

长江刀鱼自然也不能免俗，简单到鱼鳞都不用处理，也用不着刀具，其法也是充分体现了对这种食材的尊重，轻捏住鱼鳃部分，使一对竹筷由口部通入鱼内，正反向轻搅片刻边转边将筷子抽离即可带出内脏，鱼头朝上至于涓涓细流之下，以免水流过大或摸了刀鱼的逆鳞破相，留鳃不必摘除，冲洗干净就已处理完毕，此时的鱼依然完好如初。

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清蒸是检验一条食用鱼自身价值的最佳方式，葱姜猪油盐这已是料理刀鱼的全部，如若红烧过油便是暴殄天物了。

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长江刀鱼与其说是吃，不如说是吸来的贴切，其肉薄，刺多而软，食之当先吮吸鱼头，俗语称“鳙鱼头青鱼尾，刀鱼鼻子河豚嘴”，头部的丰富口感确实让我词穷了，而后夹住鱼头缓缓将主刺脊椎抽离鱼身，如若成功地做完这些，你看到的鱼身还是完整的，鱼肉入口轻轻吮吸，刺和肉很容易分离，品尝过程就如同接吻，而且是法式的，香艳而绵长，让人上瘾。

如今的刀鱼，是否只是一种传说

眼下清明将至，最近一有时间便凌晨早早赶到几个以往长江刀鱼产量相对较高的码头，等待渔船归来，一艘艘靠岸带来的是一次次的遗憾、失落，今年的个头越来小，产量也降至历史冰点，有关部门这次行动得很快，今年刀鱼禁捕开始，可那些渔民祖辈都靠水吃水，生计不解决偷捕便不会消失，禁捕令不如说是涨价令，只会让今年的长江清明刀价格流为另一次传说。

看着渔网上零星的小刀鱼及远去的江水，不免悲从中来，点燃一根香烟，抽一半丢进长江，祭奠下逝去的光景，刀鱼祭。

我们走得太快，得到了很多，失去的更多，幸好我们这里还有鱼。

文 / 刘浮生

图片 / 刘浮生

BGM / You Have Loved Enough-Leonard Cohen

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