二十万吃货的精神故乡
我喜欢吃鱼,作为一个靠海长大的人,水带来的丰饶物产,足以让人一生不忘。
每个水域附近,都有它独特的水产,比如长江的刀鱼。因鱼生形似尖刀得名,是至鲜至美却日渐消逝的食物。
刘浮生笔下的刀鱼,在江水流转之间,仿佛看见故人魂魄,此间的美好与怅然,不可道也。今晚深夜君就带你看看,刀鱼的世界。
——深夜君
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儿时的匆匆一吻,已然陷溺,再见便是倾心,钟情至今。总有那么一道菜可以占据我们心里最温柔的角落,就如自己挚爱的女人,扎根深处,千丝万缕,任红尘逐年深,我亦如初见。
岁月荏苒,孩童时期的很多记忆已经无法再去提起而清明前的长江刀鱼成功地触发了我第一次见它的场景片段。
童年时与刀鱼的一吻
缠绵了数十载
5岁那年,老屋里,奶奶用毛巾包边端上装得满满盈盈热气腾腾的一个大盘子,很是漂亮,金灿灿的,要知道,颜色比香味更能吸引一个孩子。
桌上,爷爷穿着那个年代的主旋律深蓝色春装,大手一把将我抱起入怀,很认真地告诉我这叫刀鱼,而后用筷子轻轻挑开上层的鱼,夹了一条底下浸透汤汁的,小心地吹了又吹,在鱼下面接着滴下来的汤汁一手递到我面前说“对着鱼嘴轻轻地吸”,照做了,那种鲜绝的美妙口感从那一刻起便烙进了我味觉记忆里最深的位置,这一吻便缠绵了数十载。
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曾经沧海难为水
除却巫山不是云
这些年寻访名山大川,江河湖海,品鉴下来鱼中至味还是这一尾清蒸的清明长江刀鱼。
不仅仅是味觉记忆带来的感触,客观地评价而言,刀鱼学名刀鲚,自古以来便是长江四鲜之首,自二月开始从东海洄游进长江产卵,这个过程其性腺逐渐成熟,加之水质的变化,使得其肉质变肥美且鱼刺变软,这个神奇的转换之旅成就了清明长江刀鱼美轮美奂的口感,这其中你能领略到大海的浩瀚,也能感受到长江的包容,个中滋味唯有门下品刀客自清。
至鲜至美,香艳绵长
老餮们的理论是:越顶级的食材,其加工方式越简单 。
长江刀鱼自然也不能免俗,简单到鱼鳞都不用处理,也用不着刀具,其法也是充分体现了对这种食材的尊重,轻捏住鱼鳃部分,使一对竹筷由口部通入鱼内,正反向轻搅片刻边转边将筷子抽离即可带出内脏,鱼头朝上至于涓涓细流之下,以免水流过大或摸了刀鱼的逆鳞破相,留鳃不必摘除,冲洗干净就已处理完毕,此时的鱼依然完好如初。
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清蒸是检验一条食用鱼自身价值的最佳方式,葱姜猪油盐这已是料理刀鱼的全部,如若红烧过油便是暴殄天物了。
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长江刀鱼与其说是吃,不如说是吸来的贴切,其肉薄,刺多而软,食之当先吮吸鱼头,俗语称“鳙鱼头青鱼尾,刀鱼鼻子河豚嘴”,头部的丰富口感确实让我词穷了,而后夹住鱼头缓缓将主刺脊椎抽离鱼身,如若成功地做完这些,你看到的鱼身还是完整的,鱼肉入口轻轻吮吸,刺和肉很容易分离,品尝过程就如同接吻,而且是法式的,香艳而绵长,让人上瘾。
如今的刀鱼,是否只是一种传说
眼下清明将至,最近一有时间便凌晨早早赶到几个以往长江刀鱼产量相对较高的码头,等待渔船归来,一艘艘靠岸带来的是一次次的遗憾、失落,今年的个头越来小,产量也降至历史冰点,有关部门这次行动得很快,今年刀鱼禁捕开始,可那些渔民祖辈都靠水吃水,生计不解决偷捕便不会消失,禁捕令不如说是涨价令,只会让今年的长江清明刀价格流为另一次传说。
看着渔网上零星的小刀鱼及远去的江水,不免悲从中来,点燃一根香烟,抽一半丢进长江,祭奠下逝去的光景,刀鱼祭。
我们走得太快,得到了很多,失去的更多,幸好我们这里还有鱼。
文 / 刘浮生
图片 / 刘浮生
BGM / You Have Loved Enough-Leonard Cohen
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