温州鱼丸,是我不畏尘世的烽火

二十万吃货的精神故乡

说起鱼丸,脑海里都会浮现出白净的圆形丸子。但温州鱼丸却“名不副实”,是不规则的珊瑚状。

温州鱼丸是水乡人家常吃的食物,对在外漂泊的人而言,它携带着浓稠急切的思家之情。

今夜,深夜君为你带来一个关于温州鱼丸的温暖故事。

——深夜君

- 正文 -

          

食物,是人最深的乡愁。当我们逐渐长大,当我们在外漂泊,最念念不忘的便是故乡的美食和小时候的味道。

冬日虽寒,家人围坐,灯火可亲

幼时,读朱自清的《冬》,觉得甚是有趣,“说起冬天,忽然想到豆腐。是“小洋锅”(铝锅)白煮豆腐,热腾腾的。水滚着,象好些鱼眼睛,一小块一小块豆腐养在里面,嫩而滑,仿佛反穿的白狐大衣。”

三言两语让人仿佛真的看见细嫩、幼滑的豆腐的在锅里颤巍巍的沉沉浮浮。

长大后再读,感受自然是不同的,不禁为朱自清和他兄弟眼巴巴望着那锅,等着热气里从父亲筷子上掉下来的豆腐的神态而会心一笑。是啊,这饱含着父爱的滚烫的豆腐,真的是冬天里的好物。

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冬日虽寒,但一家人围在一起热热闹闹的吃点烫的东西,确实是一大慰藉,趁热吃下去,似乎五脏六腑都被清洗了一遍。

而对于我来说,最难忘的是外公亲手做的鱼丸。

      

外公手下的温州鱼丸

温州鱼丸,与各地的鱼丸都有所不同,外形为不规则的珊瑚状,呈半透明的玉白色,有点类似面疙瘩,所以也叫鱼面。

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每次我嚷嚷着要吃鱼丸的时候,外公都会一大早起来去菜场买新鲜的鱼。温州靠海,所以菜场里的海鲜都是活蹦乱跳的。

外公把新鲜的鮸鱼肉作为主料,挑去鱼刺后切成细条,然后剁碎,用酒、盐和味精腌制一会儿,加入番薯淀粉拌入姜丝均匀混合,再细心用手把鱼肉揉捏至弹性十足。

下锅时,外公将鱼肉用手指挤入沸水中。每当这个时候,我都跃跃欲试,结果总因为力道不足,挤得太近而粘到锅上。

不一会儿,晶莹剔透如白玉般的鱼丸便浮出水面,翻滚出阵阵鲜味,舀出鱼丸,再加入米醋和胡椒粉,不禁让人垂涎三尺。

鱼肉含水量比较大,质地比较柔软,因此也很容易入味和成泥,但真要有一份手力和耐心才能把控住这鱼丸的口感,不然鱼丸很有可能就变得松软而没有嚼劲。

外公做的鱼丸总是Q弹嫩滑,鱼肉丝丝有嚼劲,连汤都充溢这鲜美的鱼汁味。时光没有让外公的厨艺消失,反而因为经验的累积,让外公做的食物更加美味。

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不管是看外公做鱼丸,还是品尝外公做的鱼丸,都有一样的幸福感。有时觉得,外公制作鱼丸时的那份认真,大概也会让鱼丸分外鲜美起来。

外公做的鱼丸

成为我不为尘世的烽火

简简单单的美食,纯纯粹粹的世间真情。那鱼丸里的鲜美滋味,是储存在心底的思念和期盼。

如果食物里蕴含着情分,那么,食物消化后,情分会在记忆里膨胀开来,牢牢地扎根,茁壮地成长,永不枯萎,绝不凋谢。

美味之所以值得回味,是因为回忆会给往事涂上一层温暖的色调,外公亲手做的鱼丸在我心里变成了一种很温暖的存在,让我不畏尘世的烽火。

每次在外地看到温州鱼丸这几个大字,都有一种家的感觉,尤其是寒冷的冬天,锅盖一掀,满满的水汽腾地一下升起,白玉般的鱼丸在水里游荡,感觉心里都温温的。 

文 / Wenny

图片 / 百度图片、花瓣网

BGM / 花火が瞬く夜に – 羽肿

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