二十万吃货的精神故乡
今天翻后台记录，看到一篇老文章，讲食与色。
我身边常有人嫌弃对摆盘太纠结这件事，然而在我眼里，这件事情却倍有想象价值！
你是肉也好，你是菜也罢，我就喜欢看你油光娇嫩的躯体，然后在凹凸的味蕾上摩擦，在牙齿的压迫间汁水迸发，最终彼此交融。你看，这样的好色多有营养。
好了，现在开始正儿八经的食色之旅吧，这篇文章很长，分上下两篇，意犹未尽的话记得等明天。
——深夜君
3:44我就是这样的颜色来自深夜谈吃
－ 正文 －
一道美食，往往讲究色香味俱全，而对于首当其冲的“色”，我有着一种近乎偏执的喜爱。食物的贵贱我并无要求，但是能入得我眼的，我才愿意入口。
正因如此，相对于浓油赤酱、难辨食材本来面目的卤味拼盘，我更爱色彩丰富、清爽喜人的沙拉，而一盘集青豆的绿、鸡蛋的黄、米饭的白、胡萝卜的橙色等于一体的扬州炒饭，往往比满眼黄澄澄的咖喱炒饭更和我的心意。
红烧与乱炖，酱色里是朦胧的惊喜
出生于中原的一个小城，这里的人们对于食物没有过多的要求，能填饱肚子、提供每日工作生活所必需的热量足矣，至于食物的品相，更是被视为虚头八脑的东西，不值一提。
爸爸炒菜时偏爱入酱，老抽、甜面酱、黄豆酱来者不拒，基本上就是“红烧一切”，再加上本身的重口味，一桌菜炒下来，食物往往都变成了同样的红褐色，所以在我关于幼时的食物记忆里，色彩是最模糊的一个部分，好像所有的菜都蒙了一层浓重的酱色。
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及至到了东北读大学，这种情况也并没有改变多少，食堂菜本身就让人少了几分期待，何况东北大酱本就是东北人的心头好，所以四年吃下来，让我印象最深的还是那颜色浓得化不开的东北乱炖。
传统的乱炖或许尚且有一些颜色上的起伏变化，但我日常接触到的食堂版本则将被食堂大师傅的大锅铲将这种变化一次性铲去，一道菜上来，只能通过口感来分辨哪个是土豆，那个是茄子。
不过这种做法偶尔也能给人一种惊喜，夹起一块儿土豆入口，嚼了两下才发觉竟然是肉！这对千篇一律的食堂菜是一种难得的调剂，也让平常的一顿饭登时变得活泼起来。
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食物色彩学，起源于粤菜
我对食物色彩的追求起源于深圳，而对我的食物色彩学起启蒙作用的便是粤菜。当时尚在报社实习，中午主任带我们一起出去吃饭，粤菜注重时令及食材本味，一道道我完全叫不出名字的时令蔬菜被端上桌，青菜绿得仿佛要滴出水来，和豆腐的白嫩搭在一起，何等的赏心悦目。
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作为摆盘的萝卜花、香菜叶、圣女果，无一不给这道菜丰富了色彩，就这么一道菜，春意就漾满餐桌了。
来到广州读研，同门聚会第一波，吃的仍是粤菜。烧鹅、烤乳鸽之类的大菜并未引起我多大兴趣，一道客家酿豆腐倒是把我吃美了。细嫩的豆腐切成两三厘米宽，一厘米厚的块儿，中间挖出洞，填上调制好的肉馅儿，然后上锅蒸。
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水蒸气将食物由生转化为熟，却丝毫没有破坏食物的形状与色泽，用勺子小心地舀起一块，白嫩嫩的豆腐在勺子中微微晃动，有一种布丁般的质感，蒸制过的肉馅儿颜色略有缓和，中心却仍保留着粉红的色泽，和白嫩的豆腐一样，让人不由得生出几分爱怜。
清蒸鲩鱼块儿也是我的至爱，白嫩的鱼肉在红褐色酱汁的衬托下显得更为娇嫩，淡黄色的姜蓉和切得细碎的葱丝悠然躺在鱼肉之上，使得吃饭的人夹菜时的动作都不由得轻柔起来。
淡妆浓抹，惊艳的粥底火锅
粤菜里有名的粥底火锅也不得不提，与四川火锅红艳艳的麻辣汤底不同，粤式火锅是以熬得绵滑的白粥作底，经过长时间的熬煮，白米的棱角被磨去，变成柔似水醇如蜜的白粥，在灯光的照射下，粥油闪烁着亮晶晶的光，像是集结了食物的所有精华似的。
据说豪华版的粥底是要以老母鸡、猪大骨、老鸭、金华火腿、精肉及泰国香米等混合熬制而成了，如此看来，这么一锅粥底，本身就是精华中的精华了。
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粤式粥底火锅是很讲究涮菜的顺序的，往往是先海鲜后肉类再蔬菜，一盘盘简单处理过的新鲜海鲜被依次夹入锅中，简单涮一下便马上捞出，捞出以后要马上吃掉，吃完一盘才下第二盘，讲究的就是个新鲜。因为免去了混煮于一锅的尴尬，食材得以保留各自本身的味道，互不影响。
鲜鱼片、北极贝、海虾等在锅中简单地涮过以后，仍保留着娇艳的色泽、饱满的汁水和自身的柔韧口感，咬一口仿佛将整个大海都吞进了肚里。肉类也只是简单切成薄片，这样在涮煮过后仍保留着肉类原有的美味。
与北方的火锅不同，粥底火锅并没有麻将、腐乳、韭花、蒜泥等复杂的蘸料，顶多一小碟甜酱油，为的仍是个“鲜”字。总而言之，粥底火锅是我吃过的最具视觉享受的火锅，海鲜及肉类仍保有自身的粉与白，青菜经过涮煮更添了一分绿，煮到最后，粥底仍是干净清爽，只增添了淡淡的一点青菜的绿色，这是一道登峰造极的视觉盛宴。
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-未完待续-
文 / 丫米的小确幸
图片 / 百度图片
BGM / 我-张国荣
原文发布时间：2013年10月24日
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