让我思春的,竟然是这块饼

二十万吃货的精神故乡

昨日是立春之日,阳和起蛰,品物皆春。明代《酌中志》中有记载:“立春之时,无贵贱嚼罗卜,曰‘咬春’。”

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如今,立春之日吃春饼是不少地方的饮食习俗,烙好的薄冰,卷菜而食,食入腹中之时,似是在提醒莫负大好春光。

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过了立春,万物复苏,一年四季从此开始了。愿各位一切顺遂。

——深夜君

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《立春》

左河水

东风化雨逐西风,大地阳和暖气生。

万物苏萌山水醒,农家岁首又谋耕。

挂断家里打来的电话已经十几分钟了,橙子还呆呆的愣在沙发上。耳边一直回响着妈妈打来这通电话的缘由,不住念叨着的“明儿打春,你要回来吃春饼吗”。

 

橙子是个北方姑娘,没有谁可以比她更北了。自小钟爱面食的她,只身来到南方倒也逐渐学会了去适应三餐米饭的日子,实在馋得不行就跑出去买个手抓饼,只要一张饼加一颗鸡蛋。几大口吃掉,继续工作。

出门在外时常想念妈妈烙的薄饼,随便卷点什么,甚至空口吃都很好吃。常常等不及端上桌子就溜进厨房,就着盘子扯下一小片刚出锅热腾腾的薄饼嚼两口吞下肚子。

每次抽空回去,橙子妈妈就会抱怨很费面粉,却还是会乐呵呵地和面,架上那口用了十几年的平底锅,表达着最朴实的爱意。

在家看了几百遍,自己也尝试过几次,却总做不出妈妈的那种味道。回想起妈妈每次做薄饼,总是提前准备好所有原料,然后不带有一丝停顿搁置,一气呵成。

胖嘟嘟的面团被擀杖三下五下擀成大小适中的饼皮,把油和面粉均匀抹在饼内起层又不至粘连。等到锅里的油热起来,用木铲飞快地将一个个圆圆的面饼铲到锅中。用平锅煎烙,手艺全在对温度的掌握。

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橙子小时候最喜欢等到饼中间像吹气球一般鼓起来,然后用锅铲轻轻拍一下。十几年的功夫把火候拿捏得恰到好处,什么时候翻面什么时候出锅,老妈一打眼就全都知道。

这样做出的饼皮面金黄、圆如满月,外面带有几颗干面粉形成的褐色,里面既有嚼劲又不失松软。捏着一边可以轻松把一张分成两张薄饼,层层分离便于夹入其他菜品食用。配搭着甜面酱、葱丝、再炒个土豆丝或者其他蔬菜,简直不能更美好。

况且每到立春那天,春饼作为主角会更加隆重,辅以各类蔬菜肉食,还有各式馅料的春卷。

橙子看着茶几上随意丢在一旁的外卖盒,更加想念热乎乎的烙饼了。索性连夜驱车前往去奔赴一场和春饼的约定。

中午,隔着一道门就好像已然闻到了饭菜的香气。掏出钥匙开门,桌上摆好了清爽的五辛盘,还有几道小菜。

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橙子随手捻起一小段白萝卜塞进嘴里,循着噼噼啪啪锅铲翻炒的声音靠在厨房的门上,笑嘻嘻道“妈,我回来吃春饼啦”。

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BGM / 立春(伴奏) – 桑葚上的猴子

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