二十万吃货的精神故乡
第一次看松鼠鱼的时候，基本上无法通过造型，来判断这是咸的还是甜的。只觉得这夸张的卖相，很是抢眼。
它常常毫无争议的被放在饭桌中间，也毫无违和的出现在年夜饭中间。跟老婆饼里没有老婆一个道理，松鼠鱼里当然没有松鼠，那这到底是一种怎样的食物。跟着深夜君来看，今晚的故事吧。
——深夜君
－ 正文 －
作为土生土长的西北女汉子，酸汤水饺、羊肉泡馍、biangbiang面是溶于血脉中的主元素，也是性格最好的诠释。而甜食向来只属于小食类，茶余饭后，浅尝辄止，不做主菜推崇。
然而，伴随着交通工具的便携，人与人的交流带动大江南北饮食文化的碰撞，也不知从何时起，家中新年团圆饭上总少不了一道压轴大菜——松鼠鱼，总是惦念于怀。
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松鼠鱼起源于江浙一带，隶属于杭帮菜，因其摆盘形似松鼠而得名。清代《调鼎集》中曾有相关记载：“取季鱼，肚皮去骨，拖蛋黄，炸黄，作松鼠式。油、酱油烧”。
老爸曾调侃要使菜肴好吃，务必满足“三定律”之一。所谓的“三定律”，一是油炸的都好吃；二是油多的定好吃；三是没油的一定不好吃。
可以看到许多著名的硬菜都少不了先过油“焯”一遍之说，例如陕西名吃“葫芦鸡”，哈尔滨名吃“锅包肉”等。当然，松鼠鱼也不例外。
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葫芦鸡
锅包肉
每逢过年，全家就会在外面餐厅订购一条松鼠鱼。不自己制作的原因主要在于两方面。
一方面，由于制作工艺复杂，对刀工技术要求高，家中成员均厨艺欠佳，难以胜任；另一方面，菜肴需要用一整锅油先将鱼炸透，而炸过的油倒掉可惜，再食不利于健康，只得作罢。大概也正因为此，松鼠鱼是小时候心中一年一度难得的盛宴。
作者的年夜饭
刚出炉还在“吱吱”作响金灿灿的炸鱼，均匀地淋上橘红色的酱汁，在灯光的照射下光彩熠熠。提箸轻轻拉扯一小块儿送入嘴中，伴随着“咔呲”的脆响，酸甜适宜的汁液有节制的在口腔中漫延。
不一会儿，新鲜鱼肉特有的甘甜细软席卷而来，层次分明，恰到好处，不忍停箸。油炸食物虽然热量高，但裹挟热量较低，蛋白质丰富的鱼肉，可谓是给了饕餮大餐绝妙的借口。
今天，糖醋味的菜肴并不稀奇，总是冠以酸甜可口，老少皆宜。兜兜转转多年，也所尝甚广。
可终究是觉得松鼠鱼的做法，颇得我心。其相较糖醋里脊更精致可人，入口甜而不腻；相比菊花鱼又更为细腻纯实，最大程度保留了鱼的鲜味；而比之济南名菜“糖醋鲤鱼”造型多了些神韵，口感显得更醇厚。
前些日子，与朋友幸得苏州一游，身为吃货，常念于心的松鼠鱼代表“松鼠桂鱼”怎可不一试？拉着好友，两人奔波于大街小巷，四处打探名家。兴致勃勃，等候多时，终得一鉴真身。然而，却少了些熟悉的味道，惶惶怅怅，恍然若失。是配菜太少缺乏对比，还是到底时机不对，少了些气氛？
大概，松鼠鱼的满足在于全家齐聚一堂，你一箸我一筷“争夺”的尽兴吧！
文 / 叽里咕噜@葡萄露
图片 / 花瓣网、百度图片
BGM / Liekkas-Sofia Jannok
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